Neapolitan-style pizza comes to West Houston

Pizza Margherita at Pizaro's
Pizza Margherita at Pizaro’s

It’s hard to explain the fanatical attraction of Neapolitan-style pizza. For Americans raised on spongy-crusted, fast-food pizzas smothered in gaudy toppings, the subtlety and nuance of Pizza Napoletana can be hard to grasp. It doesn’t look like much – at least not compared to the over-sized pizzas you get at Pizza Hut and Dominos. It’s misshapen, with a charred and blackened outer crust and just a few obvious toppings – tomato sauce, cheese and basil leaves.

But as the saying goes, Pizza Napoletana is more than the sum of its parts. In the case of the classic “Margherita” pizza, the yeasty crust combines with the sweet acidity of the San Marzano tomatoes, the richness of the mozzarella cheese, the spiciness of the basil, and hints of olive oil and sea salt to create the perfect synthesis of flavor and texture.

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Tagliatelle alla Bolognese at Giacomo’s

Tagliatelle alla bolognese
Tagliatelle alla bolognese at Giacomo’s

The diversification of Italian cuisine as it gained popularity and spread throughout the world after World War II is well-documented. For example, “Italian-American” cuisine is best represented by the iconic “Spaghetti and meatballs” which, although inspired by traditional Italian dishes, is not found on the menus of ristoranti and trattorie in Italy (restaurants with “tourist menus” are possible exceptions).

Some consider this diversification as improving on a cuisine that now really belongs to the world; others consider it a corruption of a cuisine that should remain pure and inviolable. Regrettably, corrupted Italian dishes – those that are inferior to the originals – seem to far outnumber the improvements.

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CFS Challenge: Barbecue Inn vs. Triple A Restaurant

Barbecue Inn
Barbecue Inn

Houstonians have a lot of choices when it comes to comfort food. Unfortunately most of the family-run cafes and diners have been pushed out by ubiquitous corporate boxes like Chili’s, Cracker Barrel and Cheddar’s. But a few traditional diners remain, and two of those – Barbecue Inn and Triple A – are considered Houston institutions. Here, comfort food is king – fried shrimp and chicken are savored by the regulars, with pot roast and chicken & dumplings often appearing as specials. But we’re here for the chicken-fried steak (CFS), and these two old-school diners serve up some of the most noteworthy CFS in Houston.

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Retsina: Greek Wine of Flavor and History

Kourtaki retsina
Kourtaki retsina

One of the great pleasures of traveling is the ability to literally walk in the footsteps of ancient peoples. For me, a favorite destination is the Acropolis in Athens, Greece, where you can climb through the Propylaea (gate) on marble steps pitted from the footsteps of countless spiritual/military/touristic pilgrimages to the Parthenon beyond. Similarly, at the Colosseum in Rome, you can sit on a bench still clad in the original marble scratched with ancient graffiti and imagine a Roman, perhaps not unlike yourself, sitting in that very same spot many centuries ago watching a Gladiator’s battle.

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Posted in 29-95, Food, Food for Thought, Houston Chronicle, International Cuisine, Print, Travel
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Feature for Qatar Airways Inflight Magazine

Qatar Airways Oryx Inflight Magazine featuring Philippe Restaurant
Qatar Airways Oryx Inflight Magazine featuring Philippe Restaurant (Click image above for 300KB PDF)

When the nice folks at London ad agency Agency Fish asked me to write a feature about a Houston restaurant for the Qatar Airways inflight magazine, I jumped at the chance. The magazine is available to more than a million travelers in the near-mid-far east as well as in more than 100 flight lounges throughout the world. A great opportunity to present Houston food to a huge audience. The cultural and audience requirements for the feature were specific and detailed, but generally the restaurant needed to combine a local (Houston, Texas) flavor with an international sensibility in atmosphere, design and menu. In collaboration with Agency Fish, the choice was made to feature Philippe Restaurant.

You can view a PDF file (300KB) of the feature, or view the feature and full magazine on the Qatar Airways/Agency Fish website.

Posted in Food, Gulf Coast, International Cuisine, Print, Print Features, Texas, Travel
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